A prime reason to visit the island of Vieques in Puerto Rico is Mosquito Bay, an inlet on the island's south coast that is one of the world's premier locations for bioluminescent dinoflagellates called Pyrodinium bahamense, tiny one-celled plankton that emit light when disturbed.
The bay's depth, temperature, lack of pollution and the red mangroves that surround it provide the perfect breeding ground (the mangrove roots release tannins rich in vitamin B12, which the plankton feeds on).
The Spanish who settled the island were afraid of the light in the water, thinking it the work of the devil. They blocked off part of the bay's sea access with giant boulders, hoping to prevent the evil from escaping into the ocean. Ironically, those rocks made the environment even more conducive to the dinoflagellates' thriving.
Touring the bioluminescent bay requires paddling out to the middle of the bay by kayak to avoid disrupting the water's delicate balance with diesel gas. As you get deeper, you'll notice the water begin to glow with a bluish light along the edge of the paddle.
It's hard to describe how magical it looks. On our tour, a light rain began to fall, and each drop lit a path as it hit the still water in the bottom of the kayak. Swimmers can slip into the bay to make evanescent "angels" as they lie on their backs and move their arms and legs.
Keep an eye out for sparkling streamers deeper in the water, as fast-moving fish leave trails of light in their wakes.
If you want to visit any of Puerto Rico's bioluminescent bays, be sure to time your trip carefully. The glowing organisms are best visible on dark nights, and some companies won't bother to take tours out when there is a moon.
-- Jill Wilson
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